Living with the TRex.

I mentioned elsewhere that I was going to develop a section for this heli specifically. It’s been a while but here it is!

There are different versions of the TRex, the one I bought was the XL that features indirect ECCPM (Electronic Cyclic Collective Pitch Mixing) swash plate control. What I mean by this is that the cyclic servos are linked to the swash via bell cranks. True ECCPM, as on the SE version, has the servos connected directly to the swash. Theoretically, this is more precise but a potential downside is that the servos can suffer more damage in a crash.

Another key difference between the XL and the SE is that the XL has plastic side frames whilst the SE has carbon frames. The SE also has all the alloy and carbon upgrades as standard. If you’re into upgrading helis, take it from me, you’re better off starting with the SE version, the sum of the parts…….

Finally on the topic of versions, the original TRex had the servos and mechanicals laid out like a mini Raptor complete with the rocking collective arm. These machines are generally made with grey plastic frames and as I read on RunRyder “if its grey stay away!” There’s nothing fundamentally wrong with these versions but as with everything, upgrades and improvements are part of a manufactures development program.

So there’s a quick and dirty comparison for you.

I bought my kit for Christmas 2005 from a dealer on Ebay advertising everything you need to fly, apart from a transmitter and receiver. The kit arrived neatly stored in the Align alloy carrying case that now serves to hold most of the tools I used to have in my flight box. Along with the kit were the standard Align servos, Align 25 AMP ESC, 430L 3550 KV motor, Telebe gyro, two Align branded 1800 MAH Li-Poll batteries, one pair of wooden main blades, one pair of plastic main blades and an upgraded metal swash plate. The kit had everything needed to make the heli and even had some spares and a choice of drive pinions. I decided not to use the supplied gyro and bought a Futaba 240 and a JR 700 PPM receiver, along with some 315 mm carbon main blades form Skyline models.

I’m not going to give a blow by blow account of the build, that’s been done elsewhere, but what I will say is that the instructions were clear and concise and would not cause the raw beginner any problems. The build was moderately quick and in the main all parts fitted together well.

There is a “but” though! I was not happy with the supplied servos, the arms were thin and weak and liable to flex, and there was absolutely NO way I could get the canopy on without fouling the two upper servo arms.

Setting up the 120 degree swash was easy using my JR 3810 but as a tip, when doing the radio set up, use a spare 4.8 volt RX battery plugged directly into the receiver. This means there’s no way the motor can fire up. The other way to achieve this safely is to ensure the motor is not connected. Electric motors produce their full power the moment they start to turn so be warned!

So the final build was a stock XL. I chose to use the 13 tooth pinion as the intention was to use the heli as a beater, in other words a machine to use and abuse whilst learning and practicing my 3D flying! The TRex is considerably cheaper to repair than my Raptor 90.

Here’s a basic truth about electric micro helis. You get what you pay for, and to get what you NEED they’re almost as expensive as a 50 sized machine! At this point I’d shelled out about £230 for the kit, and yes I did get stung for duty and VAT on the import, about £60 for the Futaba 240 gyro and about £35 for the receiver. Didn’t end there though, my existing Supernova fast charger would not charge Li-Poly batteries so that was replaced by a Prodigy Pro Peak charger, another £60! Having had the Logo 10 before, I already had a power supply to use when charging batteries so there was a cost saving there otherwise another £30!

So everything was built, charged and programmed so, off for the first flight!